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This story was published in A-section on Sunday, April 28, 2002.

Arabs, Israelis forge haven of coexistence


NEVE SHALOM/WAHAT AL-SALAM, Israel - "OASIS OF PEACE"



A broad grin crossed Lior Shalem's boyish face as he drove up the long, winding road leading into this picturesque village and made a turn toward the plot of land where his house will be built.

Here, he and his wife will have Jewish and Arab neighbors. They will hear Arabic on the street as much as Hebrew. And his 14-month-old daughter will go to school with Jewish and Arab children.

Fed by suicide attacks in Jerusalem and military attacks in the West Bank, the mistrust and hatred between Jews and Arabs have never seemed greater in this region. But for Shalem's family, there is no better time to move to a town where coexistence is the ruling principle.

"There is no other possibility," said Shalem, 38, a Jewish architect, referring to his family's decision to move here.

The village is known by both its Hebrew and Arabic names, which mean "Oasis of Peace." It is home to 40 families, 20 of them Jewish and 20 Arab. Ten more families, including Shalem's, are building houses.

Nestled on a hilltop about halfway between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, this community is a refuge from the tension and violence that have gripped this region.

But even here, the political and military clashes are taking their toll, creating small tensions among residents and raising new doubts about the future.

"We have conflict," said Abdessalam Najjar, the community's development director and one of the town's original Arab residents. "Everything happening outside influences our life inside."



Breaking down walls



Founded in the early 1970s by Father Bruno Hussar, a Dominican priest, the village has one main circular street, with a few little offshoots, and is centered around a guest house and the village's main office building. Although it's grown over the last 30 years from a few lone families to the current 40, the village, dotted with eucalyptus trees and rose bushes, still has a tranquil feel.

Some residents, such as the teachers and town administrators, work in the village, while others commute to jobs in Jerusalem and elsewhere. Although there are plenty of other cities where Arabs and Jews live together, Neve Shalom is the only place here where they choose to do so with the goal of equality and coexistence.

All those who live here came with the view, expressed by the village founder's philosophy, that they can break down walls of mistrust and hostility by living side-by-side and building mutual respect.

The place where those principles are most on display is the school, where children are taught in Hebrew and Arabic and learn about the histories of both people. About 300 children attend the school, with about 90 percent coming from surrounding Arab and Jewish towns.

On Independence Day, the children spent the first hour of classes together, then separated to learn about their culture's history of that day as well as that of their neighbors. At the end of the day, the teachers put big sheets of paper on the ground and told the children to draw war. The resulting pictures included soldiers, tanks and guns, said Diana Shalufe-Rizek, an Arab co-principal at the school. The teachers then asked the children to draw peace, without giving them new paper. Some crossed out their pictures or tried to draw over them, while others just gave up, she said.

The point of the lesson was clear: "It's hard to make peace from war," said Shalufe-Rizek.

Current events are testing the founding principles of the village.

The most recent friction occurred last month, when Arabs living in Israel organized a strike to show their solidarity with Palestinians in the West Bank and Gaza.

The Palestinians in Neve Shalom decided to join by closing the school for a day, giving little notice to the Jewish families.

"They felt very angry," Najjar recalled. "The Jewish parents said this was a very violent action."

The Palestinians were taken aback because they considered it a nonviolent show of support for their people.

But such incidents seem to be the exception, not the rule. Mostly, residents say, the conflict has brought a new unity and a resolve to prove that coexistence can work.

Until the beginning of the violence in the fall of 2000, "there was a feeling that it was just a matter of time" before peace was achieved, said Howard Shippen, a British-born Israeli who lives here with his wife, Dorit, and their three children.

But suddenly, the violence "exposed the bluff of coexistence," Shippen said. It was seen within the village as a direct challenge to their beliefs.

"We were sort of under pressure to show that what we're representing is not phony, it's something real," Shippen said.

And when the Israeli army moved into the West Bank, the military action "mobilized" the village to look for things they could do together to address the situation, said Bob Mark, a Jewish teacher at the primary school here.

Two weeks ago, they began a humanitarian relief project to bring doctors and food into West Bank towns that have suffered as a result of the military incursions.

"This activity together helped us feel that we are on the same side," said Dorit Shippen.

It also sent a message to others outside this small haven.

"We wanted to tell the other peace supporters not to lose hope," said Najjar. "We decided we should put aside diversity and be united ... to face the nonpeaceful dynamics outside."



No fireworks



Even during the celebration of Israel's Independence Day this month, when one might expect that recollections of the country's 1948 war would bring strife to the surface, there was relative harmony.

What Israelis know as the War of Independence, Palestinians know as "Al-Naqba," or "the Catastrophe."

So unlike most of the rest of Israel, Independence Day in Neve Shalom wasn't the scene of barbecues, fireworks or family celebrations.

"We cannot celebrate our independence," said Dorit Shippen. "We're not happy."

Some families, Arab and Jewish alike, marked the day by visiting Palestinian towns destroyed in the 1948 war and erecting plaques detailing their histories. Others simply stayed home.

The day before, Memorial Day, when Israelis remember the soldiers killed in the 1948 war, the Jewish families here held a quiet ceremony at the grave of Tom Kitain, a young man who lived here with his parents and was killed in a helicopter crash in 1997 when his unit was moving into Lebanon.

Kitain's death was the source of an earlier village rift. After the helicopter crash five years ago, Kitain's family wanted to build a memorial for him.

The Palestinians objected to commemorating the death of a soldier sent to kill their people, recalled Najjar. "The Jews said, 'Did we lose the right to memorialize our sons just because we came to live with Palestinians?'" he said.

In the end, a small plaque was erected in Kitain's memory, across from the village basketball court.



Differing solutions



In talking about the current conflict, it is clear that residents share a common view: Arabs and Israelis alike condemn the suicide bombings by Palestinians. And they both adamantly opposed Israel's recent military incursions into the West Bank.

"The crime is very obviously the occupation," said Mark, the Jewish teacher.

He dismissed the notion, widely held by other Jewish Israelis, that Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat is at fault for the collapse of the peace process because he did not accept the proposal that then-Prime Minister Ehud Barak offered him at Camp David in 2000.

"The negotiations until today have been conducted with one person holding all the cards, and the other with none," Mark said, adding that it was a "myth" that Barak offered Arafat a sweet deal.

If there is any political disagreement in Neve Shalom, it's over the nature of the solution, said Ranek Rizek, an Arab who has lived here with his wife, the school's co-principal, since 1984. Many of the Palestinian families believe there should be one state, with two parliaments, but a complete sharing of the land.

"The best thing is not to cut the land again," he said. "The two-state solution is not possible," unless it's a temporary step on the way to broader cooperation.

But some of the Israelis are leery that such a plan would work.

For example, Mark said he thinks the "short-term" solution is for Israel to withdraw to its pre-1967 borders and create two states. In the long term, he doesn't talk about one state, but about broader cooperation, such as what is happening with the European Union.

In the current climate, both scenarios seem far-fetched, or at least a long way off. But residents here have not given up hope for peace within the village or outside it.

"We are not fighting," Najjar said. "We are learning how to live together."

And, he noted, at least some others must still have faith. The waiting list to move here is over 300 names long, with only 90 lots for new homes.

He said, "With most families who call now, we say come back after five years."



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Settlement is attacked: Wearing Israeli army uniforms, gunmen enter homes and kill four people. A6

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Living in Jerusalem: An Arab man and a Jewish family lament freedoms lost and opportunities missed. A7

Reporter Deirdre Shesgreen:\ E-mail: dshesgreen@post-dispatch.com \Phone: 202-298-6880




Published in A-section on Sunday, April 28, 2002.

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